Painting Tutorial: Brute Drone
BRUTE DRONES PAINTING TUTORIAL
In this tutorial I will go over how I painted a Brute Drone for the Spire faction in the game Conquest: The Last Argument of Kings by Para Bellum Wargames.
I painted this using an airbrush and contrast paints to what I consider a quick table top standard, with how many models you may need to paint I feel this is a good way to get a painted army on the table quickly.
I start with assembly. The bodies are big with lots of open poses so they are fairly easy to paint in one piece, depending on how you pose them.
I always do a zenithal prime to help me establish my light points. I recently picked up an airbrush for Father’s Day and prime using Vallejo Surface Primer Black and Liquitex Titanium White Ink. Using the ink over the black allows for a perfectly smooth zenithal transition without the grainy look usually caused by airbrushing white.
I cant remember how I got into the habit but after I prime a model I always leave it for a day to dry and cure. During this time I will do my research on finalizing my paint scheme and colour choices.
Next I used the airbrush to do some preshading on the model. Again I used an ink, this time Liquitex Transparent Raw Umber.
Once that’s dried we start to get to put colour on the model. I started with the same all over base coat I used in my Force-Grown Drones tutorial, a mix of Scale 75 SC-45 Ardennes Green and SC-29 Walnut, this time I blasted them through the airbrush to speed up the process.
Next we start working on the bone. Don’t worry if you get any of the bone colours onto the cloth, this will actually help us out on the cloth steps.
I used a mix of Vallejo Game Air Bonewhite and Vallejo Game Air Dead White.
Here is what I ended up with after my initial layer. Remember to apply in thin layers.
As you can see in the photos still lots of the undercoat shows through, this is exactly what we want.
Next I added a bit more Dead White and added a second layer and then a third.
Once those were all done I dialed down the pressure on my air compressor to around 12-15 psi and went to adding shadows and textures. This was all done using Liquitex Transparent Raw Umber Again.
Tilt the model away from your airbrush, so you are spraying from the base toward the top of the model.
Because the air pressure was so low you can get fairly close to the model when spraying, this allows you to be very precise with where you are putting paint. If some of the brown does get on areas out side the shadow that’s ok, many bones have brown areas where tendons or ligaments had attached to the bone.
One more step to go with the bone and this time we are going to use GW Contrast paints to finish up.
I used a mix of 50/50 Contrast Medium and Skeleton Horde.
Of course you can tweak that if you want a darker bone or lighter bone colour. Babysit the paint for the first 10-15 minutes while it settles, you want to avoid too much pooling. Just wet your brush with a bit of water and have some paper towel to dab any paint off the brush you collect.
Using contrast paints takes a while to dry and we can’t move onto the next step until it is completely dry. I did the final bone step just before going to bed and then picked it up again the next day.
Now onto the cloth. We are going to paint all the cloth red and I found starting with a purple base layer really deepens the red colour.
The Magos Purple dries quite light and is perfect for what I was looking for.
Almost done, last step is to mix GW Contrast Paints Blood Angels Red and Flesh Tearers Red. I mix them about 2 parts flesh tearers to 4 parts blood angels.
As with all contrast paints just apply using a thicker coat, being careful not to get any on the bone. If you do its not the end of the world you could go back and cover it with some Blood for the Blood God and call it blood splatter.
And there you have it, base you model as you like to fit the rest of your army. This technique can be used for any of the other models in your army to help you get a painted army on the table that looks good.